现在很多车辆在购买和维修时会碰到很多的专业英文缩写，很多人碰到这种情况都是一头雾水，所以特地为大家罗列以下汽车上部分常见的元件英文缩写翻译供大家参考（由于个人的水平和时间原因难免会有所差错和遗漏，忘大家加以指正和补充）
Quattro——全时四轮驱动系统
Tiptronic——轻触子-自动变速器
Multitronic——多极子-无级自动变速器
ABC——车身主动控制系统
DSC——车身稳定控制系统
VSC——车身稳定控制系统
TRC——牵引力控制系统
TCS——牵引力控制系统
ABS——防抱死制动系统
ASR——加速防滑系统
BAS——制动***系统
DCS——车身动态控制系统
EBA——紧急制动***系统
ETS——电子牵引系统
ASR——驱动防滑调整装置
ESP——电子稳定程序
EBD——电子制动力分配系统
EDS——电子差速锁
ESP——电子稳定程序系统
HBA——液压刹车***系统
HDC——坡道控制系统
HAC——坡道起车控制系统
DAC——下坡行车***控制系统
A-TRC——车身主动循迹控制系统
SAHR——主动性头枕
i-Drive——智能集成化操作系统
Dynamic.Drive——主动式稳定杆
R——直列多缸排列发动机
V——V型汽缸排列发动机
B——水平对置式排列多缸发动机
WA——汪克尔转子发动机
W——W型汽缸排列发动机
Fi——前置发动机（纵向）
Fq——前置发动机（横向）
Mi——中置发动机（纵向）
Mq——中置发动机（横向）
Hi——后置发动机（纵向）
Hq——后置发动机（横向）
OHV——顶置气门，侧置凸轮轴
OHC——顶置气门，上置凸轮轴
DOHC——顶置气门，双上置凸轮轴
CVTC——连续可变气门正时机构
VVT-i——气门正时机构
VVTL-i——气门正时机构
V——化油器
ES——单点喷射汽油发动机
EM——多点喷射汽油发动机
SDi——自然吸气式超柴油发动机
TDi-Turbo——直喷式柴油发动机
ED——缸内直喷式汽油发动机
PD——泵喷嘴
D——柴油发动机（共轨）
DD——缸内直喷式柴油发动机
TA-Turbo——涡轮增压
NOS——氧化氮气增压系统
MA——机械增压
Ap——恒时全轮驱动
Az——接通式全轮驱动
FF——前置引擎前轮驱动
FR——前置引擎后轮驱动
RR——后置引擎后轮驱动
A***—— 动态稳定系统
AYC——主动偏行系统
ST——无级自动变速器
AS——转向臂
QL——横向摆臂
DQL——双横向摆臂
LL——纵向摆臂
SL——斜置摆臂
ML——多导向轴
SA——整体式车桥
DD——德迪戎式独立悬架后桥
VL——复合稳定杆式悬架后桥
FB——弹性支柱
DB——减震器支柱
BF——钢板弹簧悬挂
***——螺旋弹簧悬挂
DS——扭力杆
GF——橡胶弹簧悬挂
LF——空气弹簧悬挂
HP——液气悬架阻尼
HF——液压悬架
QS——横向稳定杆
S——盘式制动
Si——内通风盘式制动
T——鼓式制动
***I——连续多点燃油喷射发动机
FSI——直喷式汽油发动机
PCM ——动力控制模块
EGR——废气循环再利用
BCM ——车身控制模块
ICM——点火控制模块
MAP——空气流量计
求制动系统的英文翻译
汽车制动（motorvehiclebraking）汽车在行驶过程中通过制动减速或停车的制动技术。白话是刹车和手刹。
对于手动档汽车，如果汽车行驶速度比较高，所用档位也比较高，需要制动时，踩下制动踏板，当速度降低到15km/h左右时，再踩下离合器踏板，并将变速杆推到空档。切忌在踩下制动踏板的同时，又踩下?离合器踏板并挂空档，这样将无法利用发动机制动，会使 制动距离延长。
手动汽车制动可以根据不同情况分为一下几种：制动器制动的操作方法：发动机制动的操作方法、联合制动的操作方法、间歇制动的操作方法、预见性停车的操作方法、紧急制动的操作方法。
：汽车制动时还要注意以下几点：
①在高速行驶时，应力求做到提前发现情况，及早松开加速踏板，利用发动机制动来降低车速。需要踩制动踏板时，应***用“点刹”（踩下后松开，然后再踩下）制动，使汽车逐渐减速。这样车后的制动信号灯随着制动踏板的踏放而多次闪烁，更容易引起后车的注意，还可以防止甩尾。
②如果需要在短距离内减速停车，踩制动踏板的速度可以快一点，踏板行程可以大一点，但制动过猛会使车上的乘员感觉不舒适，对于公交车来说，还有可能使乘客摔倒受伤，所以应该尽量避免制动过猛。
③下雨后路面比较湿滑，一定要注意降低行车速度，轻踩制动踏板，以免出现意外。
④如果路面有积雪或冰，不仅制动距离长，而且制动时容易出现甩尾，这时要避免紧急制动。如果出现甩尾迹象，应该马上松开制动踏板，待汽车稳定以后再继续轻踩踏板，并***用“点刹”的办法完成制动。
⑤如果汽车涉水或洗车，制动盘或制动鼓丁作表面粘了水，也会影响制动效果。涉水后，可以有意识地轻踩几次制动踏板，让制动器发热并尽快变干，使制动效果达到正常。
⑥汽车在山区行驶连续下长坡时，应提前挂好低档，充分利用发动机制动，防止频繁使用制动器使制动器过热。如果有缓速器，同时利用缓速器来降低车速，效果更好。
无论是手动档还是自动档，一旦汽车停稳以后，如果要在原地停留，都应将变速杆置于空档，并马上拉起驻车制动手柄（或踩下驻车制动踏板），以防意外溜车。
汽车的ABS是什么意思
制动系统 Braking Systems
由于字数太多所以就不全部粘贴了。
brake is a device for slowing or stopping the motion of a machine or vehicle, or alternatively a device to restrain it from starting to move again. The kinetic energy lost by the moving part is usually translated to heat by friction. Alternatively, in regenerative braking, much of the energy is recovered and stored in a flywheel, capacitor or turned into alternating current by an alternator, then rectified and stored in a battery for later use.
Note that kinetic energy increases with the square of the velocity (E = 1/2·m·v2 relationship). This means that if the speed of a vehicle doubles, it has four times as much energy. The brakes must therefore dissipate four times as much energy to stop it and consequently the braking distance is four times as long.
Brakes of some description are fitted to most wheeled vehicles, including automobiles of all kinds, trucks, trains, motorcycles, and bicycles. Baggage carts and shopping carts may h***e them for use on a moving ramp.
Some aeroplanes are fitted with wheel brakes on the undercarriage. Some aircraft also feature air brakes designed to slow them down in flight. Notable examples include gliders and some WWII-era fighter aircraft. These allow the aircraft to maintain a safe speed in a steep descent. The Saab B 17 dive bomber used the deployed undercarriage as an air brake.
Deceleration and ***oiding acceleration when going downhill can also be achieved by using a low gear; see engine braking.
Friction brakes on cars store the heat in the rotating part (drum brake or disc brake) during the brake ***lication and release it to the air gradually.
Effects on noise pollution
The action of braking for motor vehicles produces recognizable sound level emissions, varying with the specific tire types and with the roadway surface type produces considerable effect upon sound levels or noise pollution emanating from moving vehicles.[1] There is a considerable range in acoustical intensities produced depending upon the specific tire tread design and the rapidity of deceleration required to slow the vehicle.
[edit] See also
Archaic past tense of break (see brake)
Air brake (aircraft)
Air brake (rail)
Air brake (road vehicle)
Bicycle brake systems
Brake-by-wire (or electromechanical braking)
Brake lining
Brake pad
Brake shoe
Bundy tube
Disc brake
Drum brake
Electromagnetic brake
Electronic Parking Brake
Engine braking
Hand brake
Hydraulic brake
Jake brake also known as J braking
Overrun brake
Parking brake
Railway brake
Regenerative braking
Threshold braking
Trail braking
Vehicle brake
---------
How brakes work
Of all the systems that make up your car, the brake system might just be the most important. In the olden days it was also one of the simplest. Over the years as improvements h***e been made, the system that has evolved isn't so simple anymore... (It's also about a zillion times more reliable and safer.)
Your brakes work as hard or harder than any other part of the car, however much energy it takes to get your car up a hill, it takes at least as much energy to stop it at the bottom. Think about that for a second. Here, I'll say it again, it takes at least as much energy to get your car safely down a hill and stop it at the bottom, as it took to get your car up the hill in the first place. Your brakes do this by converting the kinetic energy to heat energy. All of this heat is generated between the friction surfaces of your brake pads and your rotors. (I am going to disregard the rear brakes for now, since the front brakes do the lion's share of the work.)
Rather than try to give you a step-by-step procedure for repairing your brakes, I'm going to try to show you how to diagnose a few of the many simple brake problems. Unfortunately, before I can do that, I h***e to talk about how the brake system works. If you already know how it works, then you probably already know what your problem is, but you might find something useful here anyway or at least I hope so.
Brakes operate on a simple hydraulic principle. (See diagram below) If a force is exerted on the piston putting pressure on the fluid confined in the left hand container, the fluid is forced out through the narrow tube at the bottom and into the right hand container, exerting a force on the second piston, forcing it to move upward.
Now this is how the force from your foot gets to the four corners of the car. If we add a lever to magnify the force ***lied to the first (master) cylinder, and maybe even a power booster unit to increase that force even more, all we h***e to do next is figure a way to use that force to slow down the wheels. Since the wheels are attached to the car, slowing them down will slow the car.
If we change the shape of the right hand container, (see below) to make something for the piston to push against, we can make it pinch something. Let's bolt a disc(Brake rotor) to the wheel, so that it rotates whenever the wheel does. We'll mount it in such a way that the edge of it is between the caliper piston and the caliper that we h***e bolted to the axle of the car.so that when the piston moves out, the disc is pinched between it and the other side of the caliper. Actually we're not quite done. As we h***e the system now, the disc and the caliper would wear out rather quickly (not to mention making horrible grinding/scraping noises). We need to put something between them to protect the surfaces. Let's call this part "Brake Pads" But wait, as we h***e drawn it, the piston only pushes on one side of the disc. We h***e to allow the caliper to slide back and forth if we want it to actually pinch the disc efficiently. Let's make an anchor post and allow the caliper to slide along it. Let's make a nice, strong mount to hold the brake pads, and secure it to the axle. Now all we h***e to do is mount the caliper assembly to some sturdy part of the car and we're in business.
Brake pads h***e two main parts, the steel backing, and the actual friction material. The backing is only there to support the friction material, which does the actual work of stopping the car. The friction material does it's job by converting the energy of motion to heat energy. This is done by the magic of friction. The friction between the pad and the disc slows down the disc, and creates heat. This heat is tran***erred to the pad and the disc and then (at some fixed rate) dissipated to the surrounding air. How fast that heat is radiated is determined by a simple formula, depends on mainly two factors, the temperature of the air around the parts, and the flow of air past them. 99% of the time, this cooling is more than enough to keep the brakes cool enough to work just fine.
OK, now we h***e our simple brake system. Let's see what can go wrong...
Air in the system This is usually caused by air getting into the brake fluid area, usually from the master cylinder. As the brake pads wear, the caliper pistons ride farther out of the caliper, allowing more fluid to remain in the calipers. Over time this can add up to almost as much fluid as there is in the master cylinder reservoir. If neglected, this will allow the master cylinder to pump some air into the brake lines. Air is very compressable, whereas brake fluid is not, as long as there is a solid stream of brake fluid between the master cylinder piston and the caliper piston, the brake pedal will be nice and firm. If there is air in the system, the pedal will feel spongy and will go down almost all the way to the floor, maybe all the way, depending on how much air is in the system. The standard way of dealing with air in the brake system is to perform an operation called "bleeding the brakes".
Hard brake pedal: Can be caused by bad power booster, (or loss of vacuum to the booster) seized caliper pistons, seized caliper slides, pinched brake lines, and (rarely) problems with the pedal linkage under the dash. The probable best fix is rebuilt calipers,and new pads.
Brake fade: I h***e seen too much of this, h***ing spent 5 years at the bottom of a 13 km hill with 15% grade and continuous switchbacks. Two phenomena contribute to brake fade, one is the fact that the coefficient of friction of most substances gets lower at high temperatures, and that most liquids will boil at some temperature, and that gases compress, while liquids do not. When you use the brakes to decelerate 3,000 or 4,000 or 7-8-15,000 lbs of vehicle, they get hot. Very hot. Under normal circumstances this would be no big deal, the heat that builts up in the pads, rotors, and calipers will slowly radiate back to the air flowing over them as the car continues down the road. But you aren't going down the road, you are back on the brakes, doing more decelerating for the next switchback. Instead of cooling off, your brakes are getting hotter. And hotter, and hotter. . .As the pads and rotors get hotter the friction material of the pads starts to separate. The binding agent starts to boil off from the surface of the pad, plating out on the rotor as a dark, paintlike film...coefficient of friction ***roaches zero, pedal gets hard, but no braking action. Your pupils dilate to 10 mm and your body goes into fight-or-flight mode, adrenalin courses through your system. But the car just goes faster.... You shift down, now you are standing on the brake pedal with both feet, around this time, the temperature of the brake fluid in the calipers usually reaches it's boiling point and the pedal just sinks to the floor. Your pupils reach 12 mm, your sphyncters contract to pinpoints, somehow you manage to stop the car. There is ***oke coming from behind your front wheels, maybe fire. You put out the fire and h***e lunch. After things cool off you sit in the car and try the brake pedal, it feels almost normal. Congratulations, you've just experienced, (and survived) brake fade. (You've also just flash-fried your front brakes, figure on new everything to fix it properly.)
Brake squeal: This is a high pitched squealing noise, often heard when you are going slow and are not ***lying the brakes. If it goes away as you ***ly the brakes, it could be coming from the brake wear sensors. (Also called 'squealers' by mechanics.) They are ***all bits of spring steel that are attached to the brake pads in such a way that when the pads are about 75% worn out, the sensors start to rub on the rotors, making the noise. GM invented them, and they are one of the best ideas anyone has ever had in the automotive industry. The sound is so scary that you usually go to a mechanic before any major damage is done to your rotors, and before your braking power is compromised, s***ing you money and maybe your life.
Grinding noise: Although this is one of the nastiest sounds you will ever hear, it often is the easiest to repair. The first thing you must do is learn what is making the noise. Figure out which wheel it is, then, after safely raising and supporting the car, take off the wheel & tire. Hopefully you will see a simple disc brake system, with a rotor, a caliper, and brake pads. Identify the various components. Gently rotate the brake rotor back and forth until you can identify the source of the noise. Sometimes it is just a ***all stone, tr***ed between the brake rotor and the air deflector. The faces of the rotor should be ***ooth and clean. If you see large scaly rusted places on the friction surfaces of the rotor you should replace them. Most of the time new ones cost less than you would guess. If your pads are worn out(less than 3/16 of an inch of friction material left) and you catch it in time, all you h***e to do is install new brake pads. If the surface of the rotor is damaged, you will h***e to resurface or replace it.
Brake pedal pulsation: There are a lot of things that can cause this, from out-of-adjustment wheel bearings to rotors that are bent, brake drums that are out-of-round, rusty spots on the rotors that h***e a different surface ***oothness. To determine whether the pulsation is coming from the front or the rear wheels, check to see if you can feel the pulsation in the steering wheel when the pedal is pulsating. If you can, the problem is coming from the front wheels.
Brake pull: Mostly this one comes from either a caliper piston seized or caliper slides seized. This one is dangerous! If your car tries to turn when you ***ly the brakes you could veer into oncoming traffic. What often h***ens with this one is this: the caliper piston on one side starts to seize, the other one now ***lies first, car veers away from bad part. Driver learns to compensate by steering opposite to the pull every time he brakes. A panic situation comes along, driver nails the brakes, steers away from the expected pull, but because the piston was only partially seized, it works just fine when the brakes are ***lied with vigor. There is no pull this time. It is easy to lose control of your car in situations like this, if your car pulls to one side or the other when you brake, fix it(or get it fixed) before you hurt somebody. Replace calipers and pads and service the caliper slides.
Brake gra***g: When you just barely touch the brake pedal and one or more wheels locks up and skids. This one most commonly comes from contaminated friction material on one or more brakes.
Pedal goes to the floor: Gotta be the scariest of them all. If you're lucky, a quick pump on the pedal will get you some braking action. On most newer cars, there will be some braking just before the pedal reaches the floor. Stop driving and check your fluid level. It might just need to be topped up to temporarily get you some braking action to get you home. Regardless, you must find out what caused it and fix it before you drive any further.
Components
Disc brakes h***e:
brake calipers
brake pads
rotors
caliper mounting hardware
Drum brakes h***e:
brake backing plates
brake drums
brake shoe self-adjusters
brake shoes
brake springs
wheel cylinders
Both types use:
Brake fluid
Steel brake lines and reinforced rubber brake hoses
Master cylinder
Power brake booster (usually)
proportioning valve
delay valve
metering valve
brake warning light
park brake cables, levers,
车辆紧急制动***系统的英文缩写是什么意思
汽车刹车反防抱死制动系统，《ABS》全写Anti-skid Braking System。
装置了ABS刹车系统的汽车,刹车时车胎不会一下子被锁死,相反,刹车碟会一下接著一下的,有节奏地钳著车胎。
：汽车防抱死制动系统(简称ABS:Anti-Lock Brake System)是现代汽车制动系的关键部件之一。
在汽车制动过程中，该部件能防止车轮完全抱死，提高汽车在制动过程中的方向稳定性和转向操纵能力，缩短制动距离。
充分发挥轮胎与路面间的潜在附着力、最大限度地改善汽车的制动性能，以满足行车安全的需要，一直是人们追求的目标。
虽然ABS的理论基础确立较早，但鉴于相关工业，如电子技术水平的限制，使可靠性、价格效益比成为ABS发展道路上的两大障碍。
进入20世纪70年代以来，由于电子技术的发展，使得ABS的可靠性显著改善，功能也得以完善。
加之汽车行驶速度的提高致使制动时车轮抱死拖滑成为行车安全的重大隐患之一，促使ABS使用日益广泛。
中文意思为自动紧急制动系统。
aeb是英文单词AutonomousEmergencyBraking的首字母缩写，翻译成中文是自动紧急制动系统。搭载该系统的车辆，在非自适应巡航的情况下，正常行驶，一旦遇到突***况，或者是与前方车辆和行人距离过近，就会主动刹车，避免不必要的交通事故发生。但是这种功能不一定能完全将车辆刹住，驾驶员还需要对车辆进行制动。
aeb是由两个系统构成的，分别是cib车辆碰撞迫近制动系统，还有dbs动态制动支持系统，cib系统检测到车辆即将追尾，而驾驶员没有制动车辆的情况下，会紧急制动车辆，而dbs系统在驾驶员制动车辆的力度不足是，会帮助驾驶员制动车辆，避免产生碰撞。
标签： #制动
